About Us
Nepal is a predominantly
rural society, and its rich
culture and ethnic diversity
are best experienced in its
local villages. A growing
number of programmes enable
visitors to stay overnight
in private homes in
traditional villages far
from the tourist trails.
Village stays or village
tourism, as this relatively
new activity is called in
the context offer a unique
opportunity for comfortable
cultural immersion. The idea
is that a tour operator
contracts with a whole
village to accommodate and
entertain guests; rooms in
local houses are fitted with
bathrooms and a few
tourist-style comforts, host
families are trained to
prepare meals hygienically,
and a guide accompanies the
guests to interpret.
Participating villages tend
to be located a couple of
hours' walk from the nearest
road - close enough to be
easily accessible for
less-than-fit visitors, yet
far enough to be culturally
intact and shielded from
outside influences. (You'd
never find these places on
your own.)
Village tourism differs from
trekking in a couple of
important ways. First,
although some walking is
involved, and a trekking
permit may even be required,
exercise is secondary to the
cultural experience: the
whole point is to stay in
one village and get to know
its people, not to cover
distances between villages.
Second, accommodation is in
an actual home, not a
trekking inn filled with
other backpackers, so the
cross-cultural exchange is
more authentic. And while
participating villages
obviously do get tourists,
they get far fewer than even
the most minor halt along a
standard teahouse trek, and
are completely
un-commercialized.
Tourism and its economic
benefits are far too
concentrated in a few areas
of Nepal, so village tourism
is seen as a promising way
to disperse visitors and
spread the wealth evenly.
Under the best programmes,
local people get to keep 50
percent of the income -
that's sizeable in come,
given the high rates charged
by normal operators - and
since all food and services
are locally produced,
virtually all of the money
stays in the community.
However, if village tourism
catches on, get-rich-quick
operators can be expected to
dive in with cut-price
packages that give locals a
much smaller portion of the
cut, so if you're
considering a village stay,
question prospective
operators closely about
where the money's going.
So if you're an individual
or couple you should contact
the companies well in
advance and adjust your
schedule to coordinate with
already-scheduled
departures.
A few language institutes
and other reorganizations in
Kathmandu also organize
informal home stays with
individual families in and
around the valley. Most of
these are intended
specifically to provide
Nepali language immersion,
but at least one programme
is set up for tourists just
wanting to spend a weekend
with a Nepali family.
Nepalese are essentially
conservative in their
attitudes to clothing and
general attitude. Nepalese
are still shell-shocked from
the hang-loose styles of the
hippy era and wary of all
budget travelers as a
result. A woman is expected
to dress modestly, with legs
and shoulders covered,
especially in temples and
monasteries: a dress or
skirt that hangs to mid-calf
level is best; trousers are
acceptable, but shorts or a
short skirt are offensive to
many. A man should always
wear a shirt in public and
long trousers if possible
(men who wear shorts are
assumed to be of a low
caste). It's equally
important to look clean and
well groomed - travelers are
rich, Nepalese reckon, and
ought to look the part. You
can flout these traditions,
but you'll only shut
yourself off from the happy
encounters with locals that
make traveling in Nepal so
pleasant.
Nudity is a sensitive issue.
Only women with babies or
small children in tow bare
their breasts. When Nepali
men bath in public, they do
it in their under
clothing’s, and women bath
fully clothed. Foreigners
are expected to do likewise.
Nepal has some idyllic hot
springs, but most are
heavily used as bathing
areas; don't scare the
locals off by stripping.
Paradoxically, it's deemed
okay to defecate in the
open, as in many villages
there are no covered toilets
- but out of sight of
others, in the early morning
or after dark. Men may
urinate in public away from
buildings - discreetly - but
women have to find a
sheltered spot.
Still other conventions
pertain to the body. In
Nepal, the forehead is
regarded as the most sacred
part of the body and the
feet the most unclean. It's
impolite to touch an adult
Nepali's head, and it's an
insult to kick someone. (The
Nepali equivalent of tarring
and feathering is to force a
person to wear a garland of
shoes.) Don't put your feet
on chairs or tables, and
when sitting, try not to
point the soles of your feet
at anyone. On a related
note, its bad manners to
step over the legs of
someone seated: in a crowded
place, Nepalese will wait
for you to draw in your feet
so they can pass.
Nepali views about displays
of affection are the
opposite of what most of us
are used to. It's considered
acceptable for friends of
the same sex to hold hands
or put their arms around
each other in public, but
not for lovers of the
opposite sex. Couples
shouldn't cuddle or kiss in
public, nor in front of a
Nepali host. Don't shake
hands with a Nepali woman,
as this form of contact is
not traditional.
Major Hindu temples or their
inner sanctums are usually
off-limits to non-believers,
who are technically
outcastes. Respect this:
what seems like elitism is
just Hindus' way of keeping
a part of their culture
sacred in a country where
nearly everything is open to
inspection by outsiders. In
most cases, you can see
everything from outside
anyway. Where you are
allowed in, be respectful,
take your shoes off before
entering, don't take photos
unless you've been given
permission, and leave a few
rupees in the donation box.
Leather is usually not
allowed in temple precincts.
Don't touch offerings, nor
people when they're on their
way to shrines or are in the
process of worshipping. The
front of a shrine is usually
marked by a pedestal
supporting the deity's
carrier, and/or a
lotus-carved stone embedded
in the ground: these define
the territory of the shrine,
where it's particularly
important to be reverent.
Similar sensitivity is due
at Buddhist temples and
monasteries. If you're
granted an audience with a
lama, it's traditional to
present him with a kata (a
ceremonial white scarf,
usually sold nearby). Walk
around Buddhist Stupas and
monuments clockwise - that
is, keep the monument on
your right.
If invited for a meal in a
private home, bring an
appropriate gift such as
fruit. Take your shoes off
when entering, or follow the
example of your host. When
the food is served you'll be
expected to serve yourself
first, so you won't be able
to follow your host's lead.
Don't take more than you can
eat - it is polite to ask
for seconds. The meal is
typically served at the end
of a traveler’s code:-
These tips come courtesy of
the Nepal Tourist Watch
Centre, an organization
established to preserve
Nepal's heritage and
environment through
responsible tourism.
-
Travel in a spirit of humility
and with a genuine desire to
meet and talk with the local
people.
-
Be aware of the feelings of
other people, thus preventing
what might be seen as offensive
behavior. Remember this
especially with photography.
-
Get acquainted with local
customs; respect them; people
will be happy to help you.
-
Remember that you are one of
thousands of visiting tourists.
Do not expect special
privileges.
-
Make no promises to local people
unless you are certain you can
fulfill them.
-
Cultivate the habit of asking
questions instead of knowing all
the answers.
-
If you really want a home away
from home, why travel to other
destination
Privacy
Nepalese do not have the same
concept of privacy that Westerners
do. Nepali families are large and
close-knit, and houses are small.
Nepalese grow up constantly
surrounded by other people (and
noise). They like to be with other
people, and they will assume you do,
too.
Moreover, as a foreigner you will be
an object of great curiosity as soon
as you step off the beaten track.
People may stare, point at you and
even talk about you (in Nepali)
among themselves. Nepalese will
constantly be befriending you,
wanting to exchange addresses and
extracting solemn promises that you
will write to them. Sometimes they
will ask you point-blank to help
them travel to your country,
assuming you to be wealthy enough to
pay their airfare and powerful
enough to fix their visa.
There will be days when you feel
that if you're asked the question
"What is your country?" one more
time you'll hit someone. Give
yourself time off when you need it.
But Nepalese are the best thing
about Nepal, so don't close yourself
off to meeting them.
Try to convey an accurate impression
of your home country - both its good
and bad points - and play down
materialistic standards of success.
Don't attack Nepalese in technology
and fashions they can't afford or
keep abreast. Nepali society is rich
in the traditions of family and
community that are so often mislaid
in the West, but like traditional
societies worldwide it is under
attack, and we are only now
beginning to see that tourism is a
corrupting agent.
You may be dismayed by the amount of
rubbish in the streets. There are
few rubbish bins in Nepal (although
they're starting to appear in
tourist areas), and people throw
their litter on the ground, where it
may or may not be swept up by other
people whose job it is to do so.
Where they exist, toilets range from
"Western" (sit-down) flush jobs to
two planks projected over a stream.
In lodges - tourist ones aside - the
norm is a squat toilet, usually
pretty stinky and flyblown. When
traveling by bus, there will almost
always be a bathroom available at
rest stops, but sometimes the public
toilet will be nothing but a
designated field. When in doubt, ask
Chaarpi kahaa chha? ("Where is the
toilet?"). Don't throw paper down
squat toilets: put it in the basket
provided. Toilet paper is not
provided in more basic guest houses
and restaurants, so bring your own.
Nepalese use a jug of water and the
left hand (try it yourself - it's no
more or less disgusting than the
toilet paper method).
Finally, be patient. Nepal is a
developing country and things don't
always work or start on time. It's
unrealistic to expect things to be
like they are at home, even if the
menu or brochure makes it sound as
if they will be. If a restaurant is
slow in filling your order, it may
be because they've only got one
stove. Getting angry or impatient
will only confuse Nepalese and won't
resolve the problem. The Nepali way
of dealing with setbacks isn't to
complain, or even to keep a stiff
upper lip, but to laugh. It's a
delightful, infectious response.
You can't change Nepal, and even if
you could, it is not yours to
change. Many things in Nepal are
slow, inefficient or downright
nutty, but that's just the way
things are. Taking the attitude that
"somebody's got to teach them a
lesson" or "if nobody complains
it'll never change" (real-life
dialogue overheard in Kathmandu)
will only make you and everyone
around you miserable. Go with the
flow. Its Nepal you've come to
experience - let it be Nepal.
To get by with a minimum of
disappointment, the best strategy is
to scale back your expectations,
always double- and triple-check
important arrangements, take all
assurances with a pinch of salt
(Nepalese will sometimes tell you
what they think will make you happy
rather than the truth), and find
something interesting to do while
you're waiting. |